Door Fitting Instructions
1. PLANNING
You can cut a standard door to fit a smaller opening by removing up to 10mm of wood all around. If your opening is a larger or a different proportion, you will probably have to have the door made to measure.
When choosing your door, you need to think about how you would like to finish your oak door. Oak doors usually looks best with a stained/oiled/waxed finish but you could paint them if you wish.
Choose a dry day for hanging the door and hang your door as early as possible. If there is a chance you will not finish before dark, put the old door back on overnight.
Before you hang a new door, make sure you store it somewhere dry, such as in the house, and leave the door to acclimatise to its surroundings.
2. MEASURING UP
Step 1: Measure the door frame by checking the height and the width at various places accross the opening, then check that the frame is square by measuring the diagnols. You have to make sure that you consider the differences in width, height or shape when you are fitting your door. You should hold the door against the frame to see how the door and frame fit together. If the door is larger than the frame, draw a line all around with a soft pencil. Please note that if you are reducing the door size, do not exceed more than 6mm in total, 3mm of each side. All lock or handle cavitites should be kept to a minimum size and sited away from the mid-rail joint.
Step 2: Use a panel saw to cut off wide strips from the door before you smooth the edges with a plane. If you do not have a panel saw, you could always use a circular saw. Guide the saw on a straight line by running it against a stout wooden batten clamped to the face of the door. Do not cut down to the marked lines - leave a small amount for finishing with a plane.
Step 3: Use a bench plane for final fitting. Taking off fine wood shavings until the door will perfectly fit. When planing the top and the bottom of the door, work from the sides towards the centre to avoid splitting the wood at the corners.
3. HANGING THE DOOR
Step 1: Before hanging the door, cut out the slot for the letter box, which is usually positioned in the middle cross rail.
Drill holes at the four corners, then remove the waste by cutting from one hole to the next, using a padsaw or powered jigsaw. Trim the corners square with a chisel.
Step 2: You will need three 100mm butt hinges for an external door -postition one around 225mm form the top and the other around 300mm from the bottom, and then one in the middle.
Step 3: If possible, use the existing hinge recesses cut in the door frame, trimming them to fit the new hinges if necessary. Hold the door in the frame with packing at the bottom for correct positioning and mark the hinge positions on the door, using the recesses as a guide.
Step 4: Remove the door and place each hinge on the edge of the door, level with the marks and then draw around it.
The depth of each hinge recess should match the thickness of one hinge leaf. Use a marking gauge to score the depth of each recess on the inside face of the door.
Step 5: Cut around the perimeter of the marked recess with a chisel held vertically, then make a series of cuts across the recess. Pare the recess down to the line with the chisel held flat.
Step 6: Put each hinge in place. Drill pilot holes for the screws. Hold each hinge in the place for the time being with one screw.
Stand the door upright in the open postition, with the hinges flapped open against the frame. Put packing under the door until the hinges fit the existing recesses, or cut around the hinges to mark new recesses in the door frame.
Srew the door to the frame, using one screw in each hinge and check to see that the door can close properly.
If the hinge recesses are not deep enough, the door may catch against the closing edge - remove the hinges and pare out the recesses. If the recesses are too deep they prevent the hinges closing and the door will spring open - pack thin card underneath each hinge until the leaf is flush with the wood.
4) Sealing
Once the door has acclimatised to its new surroundings it is essential that you fully seal the door with a suitable base sealer on both faces, all four edges and on any cut outs, these being letter box holes, locks etc. This needs to be done as soon as the wrapping has been removed. Before priming or sealing, thoroughly sand all flat surfaces with a 180 grit paper. A water repellent wood protective treatment should be used in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.
5) Fitting the Glass
You can buy glazing kits for some solid oak doors. Each kit contains panes of glass cut to size and shape, plus glazing compound for sealing the edges of the glass. Glazing beads are usually supplied ready and fitted - these should be removed before the door is painted or varnished and treated seperatley.
External doors should be hung with glazing rebates on the inside: -
Step 1:Check that you have all the pieces of glass you need and that each one fits properly. If necessary, trim the rebates with a wood chisel.
Step 2: Apply a bead of glazing compund to all the rebates and press the glass firmly into place.
Step 3: Insert the glazing beads until they lie flush with the face of the door. Secure the beads with panel pins.
Step 4:Remove any excess compund and clean the glass.
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